For the assembly you will need a sharp knife or a cable stripper, a pointed tool such as an awl, two Robertson (square-head) screwdrivers, a No. 1 (medium) and a No. 0 (very small), and a large Philips (cross-shaped).
1) In this kit, the blue jacket has been pre-stripped from one end, and shrink tubing has been preinstalled (see above). This is the end that will receive the IEC plug. Use appropri- ate tools to strip about 1 cm of insulation from the white, black and green wires.
Now open the Furutech IEC connector by unscrewing the two screws on its face. Undo and remove the strain relief clamp and set it aside. With a Philips screwdriver, undo the three screws on the side of the connector.
Put the stripped end of the cable through the rear shell of the IEC plug.
Notice the two holes, marked L (live) and N (neutral), plus a third hole for the ground. Begin by putting the black wire into the “L” hole and the white into the “N” hole. Tighten the appropriate screws. Then insert the green wire into the ground hole, and tighten its screw.
Bring up the shell so that its screw holes are opposite the fastening screws, and fasten them. Then replace the strain relief clamp and tighten the screws. Do not overtighten, or you may damage the cable.
Now open the Hubbell AC plug by undoing the three small Robertson screws on its face (they twist rather than un-screw). Loosen the clamp at the rear and thread the cable end through it. With the larger Robertson screwdriver, loosen the three screws on the inside front part of the plug.
Now turn your attention to the other end. You will need to strip about 5 cm of the blue jacket using a sharp knife or box cutter. What you will see is this.
Use an awl to undo the shielded braid, and you will see this:
Cut off the three plastic tubes (don’t confuse them with the wires), as well as the transparent wrap. Cut off about half of the strands from the shield, making sure there are no loose strands. Strip 1 cm of insulation from the three wires.
The main part of the Hubbell plug body has three holes in the rear. Loosen the three large screws, which are, you’ll see, different colors: silver, brass and dark green. The white wire goes into the hole next to the silver screw, the black in the hole next to the brass screw, and the green plus the shield in the hole next to the green screw. Do not mix them up!
Then tighten each screw thoroughly.
Now replace the rear cap (it fits only one possible way), and fasten it by twisting the three screws at the front of the plug. Finally, tighten the two strain relief screws at the rear of the end cap, tightening each screw two turns in alternation. Do not overtighten!
Your GutWire 12 power cable is now assembled and ready for use. If you have an ohmmeter available, we recommend using it to check the connections before plugging the cable into a live circuit.